Adirondack Chair Design and Construction Points
Let me be upfront - I have a bias in favor of Adirondack chairs. I haven’t seen one I don’t like. But they do differ and I do like some more than others. I want to describe a few design and construction features you may want to look for when selecting you own chair.
First is overall design. Adirondack chairs can be made in various proportions, and what appeals to an individual is very much a matter of personal taste. I prefer very wide arms with smoothly curved sides while others like the arms narrow and straighter. This type of thing is a matter of personal taste.
Most wood chairs are made of wood that is ¾”-1” thick. This usually works best. I own a chair made predominately of 2x stock (actual measurement 11/2” thick) and it’s way too heavy. I bought it from a fellow making them in his shop and selling them at the side of the road. I suspect he was trying to make a sturdier chair, but all it really did was add weight. You’ll be fine with the thinner wood.
The connectors make a difference in both appearance and durability. The best for both regards is stainless steel screws and bolts. Capillary action draws water into the wood along fasteners. This leads to rot in softer woods and can be an issue even in hard wood. Countersinking the screws and filling the hole with a solid wood plug fixes this problem. Wood putty or filler doesn’t work as well.
If a manufacturer uses stainless steel screws, they’ll usually mention it prominently. Otherwise, they probably used exterior screws of the type used for deck construction. These work well enough, but ultimately are more susceptible to rust than stainless.
I prefer to see bolts used to construct the frame. The wood that the screw threads bear on tends to soften over time, especially when capillary action draws water in (those unplugged screws I mentioned). Bolts may draw water in as well, but the strength of the connection doesn’t depend on the integrity of the wood next to the bolt.
Another point affecting durability is the spacing of the back slats. On chairs with fan-shaped backs, some makers have the slats tight together at the bottom. This traps water and increases the likelihood of rot. Some space between the slats is preferable.
The original Adirondack chairs had straight seats and backs. The sloped sear and back make them surprisingly comfortable for a hard surfaced chair. Still most people find curved backs and seats more comfortable.
If you’re buying a chair where you can try it, that’s the best way to settle the comfort issue. For better or worse, we buy more and more things through catalogs or online and trying a specific chair out isn’t always possible. If you’re traveling or visiting and find yourself in an Adirondack chair that’s particularly comfortable, note the general design and if the seat and back are curved or straight. Use that as a guide when you buy your own from a catalog or online and can’t try it out first.
Having said all this, you can’t go too far wrong. I really haven’t seen an Adirondack chair I don’t like.